Jim Greenfield, Großbritannien
Info
Ostorhinchus parvulus, Smith & Radcliffe, 1912
Cardinalfish are often very tricky to transport and it is assumed that the long transport route affects them more than many other fish.
Jumping guard
A jumping guard prevents (nocturnal) fish from jumping out.
Wrasses, blennies, hawkfishs and gobies jump out of an unprotected tank in fright if their night rest is disturbed, unfortunately these jumpers are found dried up in the morning on carpets, glass edges or later behind the tank.
https://www.korallenriff.de/en/article/1925_5_Jump_Protection_Solutions_for_Fish_in_the_Aquarium__5_Net_Covers.html
A small night light also helps, as it provides the fish with a means of orientation in the dark!
Once established in the aquarium, however, they are easy to keep and make a wonderful schooling fish. It is even highly recommended to keep them in groups, as they feel much more comfortable than when kept individually.
These fish show no aggression towards each other or other fish and would therefore be an ideal stocking for small aquaria.
Usually accepts replacement food quickly in the form of frozen food. During the acclimatisation period, you should feed them several times a day with small frozen foods to avoid losses. If they do not take frozen food, you can also switch to live Artemia or Tigriopus californicus.
The feeding behaviour is similar to that of banner perch, smaller portions several times a day are an advantage.
After the changeover, the small perch should also go for granulated food.
These beautiful and small Apogon are generally not so common in the trade.
Synonymised names
Amia parvula Smith & Radcliffe, 1912 · unaccepted
Apogon parvulus (Smith & Radcliffe, 1912) · unaccepted
Ostorhinchus parvula (Smith & Radcliffe, 1912) · unaccepted > misspelling - incorrect subsequent spelling
The term "reef safe" is often used in marine aquaristics, especially when buying a new species people often ask if the new animal is "reef safe".
What exactly does reef safe mean?
To answer this question, you can ask target-oriented questions and inquire in forums, clubs, dealers and with aquarist friends:
- Are there already experiences and keeping reports that assure that the new animal can live in other suitably equipped aquariums without ever having caused problems?
- Is there any experience of invertebrates (crustaceans, hermits, mussels, snails) or corals being attacked by other inhabitants such as fish of the same or a different species?
- Is any information known or expected about a possible change in dietary habits, e.g., from a plant-based diet to a meat-based diet?
- Do the desired animals leave the reef structure "alone", do they constantly change it (boring starfish, digger gobies, parrotfish, triggerfish) and thus disturb or displace other co-inhabitants?
- do new animals tend to get diseases repeatedly and very quickly and can they be treated?
- Do known peaceful animals change their character in the course of their life and become aggressive?
- Can the death of a new animal possibly even lead to the death of the rest of the stock through poisoning (possible with some species of sea cucumbers)?
- Last but not least the keeper of the animals has to be included in the "reef safety", there are actively poisonous, passively poisonous animals, animals that have dangerous biting or stinging weapons, animals with extremely strong nettle poisons, these have to be (er)known and a plan of action should have been made in advance in case of an attack on the aquarist (e.g. telephone numbers of the poison control center, the treating doctor, the tropical institute etc.).
If all questions are evaluated positively in the sense of the animal(s) and the keeper, then one can assume a "reef safety".
Cardinalfish are often very tricky to transport and it is assumed that the long transport route affects them more than many other fish.
Jumping guard
A jumping guard prevents (nocturnal) fish from jumping out.
Wrasses, blennies, hawkfishs and gobies jump out of an unprotected tank in fright if their night rest is disturbed, unfortunately these jumpers are found dried up in the morning on carpets, glass edges or later behind the tank.
https://www.korallenriff.de/en/article/1925_5_Jump_Protection_Solutions_for_Fish_in_the_Aquarium__5_Net_Covers.html
A small night light also helps, as it provides the fish with a means of orientation in the dark!
Once established in the aquarium, however, they are easy to keep and make a wonderful schooling fish. It is even highly recommended to keep them in groups, as they feel much more comfortable than when kept individually.
These fish show no aggression towards each other or other fish and would therefore be an ideal stocking for small aquaria.
Usually accepts replacement food quickly in the form of frozen food. During the acclimatisation period, you should feed them several times a day with small frozen foods to avoid losses. If they do not take frozen food, you can also switch to live Artemia or Tigriopus californicus.
The feeding behaviour is similar to that of banner perch, smaller portions several times a day are an advantage.
After the changeover, the small perch should also go for granulated food.
These beautiful and small Apogon are generally not so common in the trade.
Synonymised names
Amia parvula Smith & Radcliffe, 1912 · unaccepted
Apogon parvulus (Smith & Radcliffe, 1912) · unaccepted
Ostorhinchus parvula (Smith & Radcliffe, 1912) · unaccepted > misspelling - incorrect subsequent spelling
The term "reef safe" is often used in marine aquaristics, especially when buying a new species people often ask if the new animal is "reef safe".
What exactly does reef safe mean?
To answer this question, you can ask target-oriented questions and inquire in forums, clubs, dealers and with aquarist friends:
- Are there already experiences and keeping reports that assure that the new animal can live in other suitably equipped aquariums without ever having caused problems?
- Is there any experience of invertebrates (crustaceans, hermits, mussels, snails) or corals being attacked by other inhabitants such as fish of the same or a different species?
- Is any information known or expected about a possible change in dietary habits, e.g., from a plant-based diet to a meat-based diet?
- Do the desired animals leave the reef structure "alone", do they constantly change it (boring starfish, digger gobies, parrotfish, triggerfish) and thus disturb or displace other co-inhabitants?
- do new animals tend to get diseases repeatedly and very quickly and can they be treated?
- Do known peaceful animals change their character in the course of their life and become aggressive?
- Can the death of a new animal possibly even lead to the death of the rest of the stock through poisoning (possible with some species of sea cucumbers)?
- Last but not least the keeper of the animals has to be included in the "reef safety", there are actively poisonous, passively poisonous animals, animals that have dangerous biting or stinging weapons, animals with extremely strong nettle poisons, these have to be (er)known and a plan of action should have been made in advance in case of an attack on the aquarist (e.g. telephone numbers of the poison control center, the treating doctor, the tropical institute etc.).
If all questions are evaluated positively in the sense of the animal(s) and the keeper, then one can assume a "reef safety".
